EASYKART:
THE ADJUSTMENTS |
THE STANDARD SET-UP AND ITS MAIN
VARIATIONS - EASYKART 100cc AND 125cc
Front set-up: the standard track includes
2.5 cm spacers placed inside the rim, a 1 mm toe-out and
a low-positioned chassis (by means of the spacers placed
on the spindle).
The chassis used by Easykart 100 and 125 fits easily into
the forecarriage: by lifting the front axle, the insertion
is even more exact, but usually it jeopardizes the solidity
of the rear axle.
Rear set-up : the height of the axle is fixed whereas the
ideal track varies between 138.5 and 139 cm;
Seat : From the front crossbar of the chassis the seat
must measure 60.5 cm on the left side and 61.5 cm on the
right side. The distance between the top of the seat back
and the axle must measure 23 cm;
Front bar : The standard set-up includes a fixed front
bar. By loosening it, the precision of the forecarriage
is reduced, which may be useful if a track has a lot of
grip. If you want to do some quick testing during practice,
to “release” the chassis from the action of
the bar it is enough to loosen the Allen screws on one of
the two fastening sides.
Warning: The bar has a weight!!! If you remove it, watch
out that you are not below minimum weight.
Tyres: Easykart 100 and 125 use Bridgestone YEZ tyres.
These tyres can cover 200 - 220 track laps before their
performance drops considerable, so they can easily be used
over two racing weekends. Due to the chassis feature, normally
the rear tyres wear out first. The standard pressure is
0.7 bar, but in this case, as well, specific choices can
be made according to the length of the race and the temperature.
For instance, one can start the race with a very low pressure
(even 0.55 bar), but it is important to know that for the
first few laps the kart is going to skid a lot and that
it is going to be difficult to keep pace with drivers starting
with a higher pressure. Towards the end of the race, however,
this choice might ensure greater effectiveness compared
to other drivers. The new tyre offers its best performance
during the first 5-6 laps: this aspect is very important
to make the best possible use of the qualifiers. Good advice
suggests that the kart should not be set up with exceedingly
worn tyres and later fitted with new ones: parameters might
change and there is an even greater danger of actually running
slower with the new tyres.
Exhaust pipe length: on average, the length between the
header end at the cylinder and the end of the cone on the
expansion chamber must measure 42 - 43 cm, taking into account
that a longer pipe favours low-speed running, a shorter
one high-speed running.
Carburetion : according to regulations, the available jet
sizes are 83 – 85 – 86 – 87 for the 100
class, and 87 – 88 for the 125 class.
The air screw for the 100 class carburettor varies between
0.5 and ¾ of a turn, whereas for the 125 class, the
1st model carburettor calls for 1.5 turns, the 2nd model
for 0.5 turns.
In winter, the air is denser and, therefore, we recommend
loosening the carburettor screw a bit further.
Mixture : For the race one can use a 5% mixture, but we
recommend you use Shell super M oil or any oil of equal
quality. If not competing, a 6 or 7% mixture is recommended.
It is very important not to store the prepared mixture for
a long time: we suggest you a new one each time.
Gear ratio : in competitions, the number of the cogs on
the crown wheel is set by the organization to an extent
varying between 80 and 84 cogs.
The pinion, instead, has to have strictly 11 cogs. Heavier
drivers have to compensate for the fact of having to face
lighter rivals with the same gear ratio by driving in a
very “clean” way, without braking too much and
always driving along very exact lines. Generally speaking,
on slow tracks gear ratios with more cogs are used, whereas,
on the contrary, gears with less cogs have to be used on
fast tracks.
Chain : the chain is among the mechanical parts most subject
to the wear. It is very important to properly grease it
with quality products immediately on entering the track.
The grease has to reach the contact point between the link
and the gear. It is also useful to check alignment (there
are specific tools, but an approximately 20 cm long bar
can be sufficient, too) and the tension frequently: the
chain should always have a minimum play and never be too
taut.
There should be about a 1 cm play perpendicularly to the
chain itself along its entire length.
